Funchal – The Capital of Madeira

Funchal is the largest city in Madeira. Located on the southern coast of the island, its houses climb up the surrounding hills, resembling an amphitheater from above.

Funchal is a modern, vibrant, and constantly developing city, full of diverse restaurants. The capital is home to about 110,000 residents, which makes up 40% of the entire population of Madeira! It is full of parks, gardens, and quintas (large estates surrounded by vast, private gardens), earning it the title of the Garden City, which it fully deserves!

It is worth dedicating two days to explore Funchal. The first day to explore the capital, get lost in the beautiful streets of the old town, and the second day to take the cable car to Monte, located at the top of the hill, visit the gardens, and admire the beautiful panorama of Funchal.

So, without further ado, the plan broken down by days:

1. Day one – Funchal
2. Day two – Monte

The map with marked locations is at the very bottom! (click here)

Funchal

The best way to get around Funchal is on foot, by scooter, or using public transportation. Personally, I got around on foot, as you can see many more places, and the distances between attractions are not that large.

1. Cathedral (Se)
2. Praca do Municipio
3. Town Hall (Câmara Municipal do Funchal)
4. Church of St. John the Evangelist (viewpoint)
5. Market (Mercado dos Lavradores) ***
6. Old Town (Zona Velha) ***
7. Fort of St. James (Sao Tiago)
8. Viewpoint – green and white lighthouse
9. Cable car to Monte

Cathedral (Se)

At first glance, a modest, simple building that doesn’t stand out in any particular way from the outside, yet it is one of the few historical landmarks that has survived intact to this day. It was built at the beginning of the 16th century by King Manuel I the Fortunate.

The interior of the cathedral… in short, is breathtaking! The ceiling, adorned with gilding and ivory, particularly catches the eye, along with the richly decorated altar. In front of the entrance stands a statue of Pope John Paul II commemorating his visit to Madeira. A place worth visiting!

Opening hours: Monday to Friday from 7:15 AM to 6:30 PM, Saturday from 8:00 AM to 12:00 PM and 4:00 PM to 7:00 PM, Sunday from 7:30 AM to 12:00 PM and 4:30 PM to 7:00 PM.

Tickets: free entry.

Praca do Municipio

In the 16th century, the square Praca do Municipio, paved with black-and-white mosaics, was the central point of the city. It was here that the first, now non-existent, town hall stood, along with a palace, a church, and a seminary.

Town Hall (Câmara Municipal do Funchal)

In the 18th-century palace of Count Carvalhal, a new town hall (Câmara Municipal do Funchal) was established in the 19th century. It’s worth visiting the small courtyard adorned with a marble statue of Leda and the swan. The town hall is located on Praca do Municipio.

Opening hours: Monday – Friday from 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM

Tickets: free entry.

Church of St. John the Evangelist (viewpoint)

The Church of St. John the Evangelist, built in the 17th century by the Jesuits, is located on the northern side of Praca do Municipio. The building, which appears modest from the outside, features a richly decorated interior. It is worth visiting for the viewpoint, from which you can enjoy a beautiful panorama of the city and Monte.

The easiest way to reach the viewpoint is by turning right from the main entrance. On the right side of the building, there is a separate door (a side entrance to the church). If you reach the university doors, you’ve gone too far. The viewpoint can also be accessed from inside the church, but it is poorly marked.

Opening hours: Monday from 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM, Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, Saturday from 3:00 PM to 6:00 PM, Sunday from 10:00 AM to 12:00 PM and 7:30 PM to 9:00 PM.

Tickets: church – free entry, viewpoint – 2 €.

Market (Mercado dos Lavradores) ***

The bustling, colorful market, filled with scents, was and still is a place where local farmers sell their goods. The two-story Mercado dos Lavradores, built in 1940 in the center of the city, is a must-visit spot in Funchal.

It is always busiest in the morning when local residents come to do their shopping. At that time, there is also the widest selection of fresh products. You can buy flowers, fish, spices, fruits, and vegetables, but also… banana-pineapples or passionfruit-tomatoes (they taste great!).

It’s worth noting that locals have their discounted prices. Three or four “mixed” fruits can cost up to 40 euros here! It’s worth stepping in to try exotic fruits and see the market, but I wouldn’t recommend buying. The vendors will charge you a lot of euros!

Opening hours: Monday to Thursday from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM, Friday from 7:00 AM to 8:00 PM, Saturday from 7:00 AM to 2:00 PM.

Old Town (Zona Velha) ***

Zona Velha is a small neighborhood stretching along the ocean, built by the first settlers. Some houses date back to the 15th century and it truly feels like time has stopped there. Narrow streets, tightly packed houses, full of picturesque corners. The neighborhood creates a kind of labyrinth, making it a pleasant place to stroll. Cafes, shops, old chapels, and art galleries give this place a wonderful atmosphere. Tourists are especially drawn to the beautiful painted doors of the houses, which can mainly be seen along Rua de Santa Maria (marked on the map). It is a must-visit place. I also recommend visiting in the evening when melancholic Portuguese songs fill the streets.

Fort of St. James (Sao Tiago)

In the eastern part of the Old Town, the yellow buildings of St. James’ Fort (Sao Tiago) are visible from a distance. It is not a very tall structure, located by the ocean’s edge. It was built in 1614 and expanded in the 18th century to protect the coastline from pirate attacks. Today, there are restaurants located there.

Viewpoint – green and white lighthouse

Walking along the ocean towards St. James’ Fort, there is a viewpoint surrounded by a breakwater. At its end stands a distinctive green-and-white lighthouse. It’s a wonderful spot to watch the sunset.

Cable car to Monte

Madeira’s most famous cable car – Teleferico do Funchal, located at the edge of the Old Town. It is the best way to reach Monte, and thanks to the glass gondolas, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the entire Funchal. The route is 3 kilometers long, and the ride takes about 15 minutes. You can also ride back down, but I recommend a different way to return, which you will read about later!

Opening hours: daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM

Tickets: one-way – €12.50 (discounted €6.50), round trip – €18 (discounted €9).

Monte

The picturesque hill surrounding Funchal is one of the most elegant towns on Madeira. The mountain village, which was established in the 19th century, quickly transformed into a suburb inhabited by wealthy families. Many large quintas, full of exotic plants, were quickly built on the hill. Today, Monte is one of the biggest tourist attractions on Madeira!

1. Tropical Garden of the Monte Palace
2. Church of Our Lady of Monte
3. Sledge ride from Monte ***

Tropical Garden of the Monte Palace

One of the two most popular gardens on the hill is located at the Monte Palace (Jardim Tropical Monte Palace), once the largest quinta. In the 18th century, it was the residence of the British consul, later a hotel was established here, and now it delights tourists with its beautiful maze full of exotic plants. The garden is divided into sections – Madeira’s flora, Japan and China with Asian infrastructure, and South African vegetation.

You should definitely dedicate 2-3 hours for a visit. There are also cafes where you can grab a snack, have coffee, or try the famous ponche!

Opening hours: daily from 9:30 AM to 6:00 PM

Tickets: €12.50 (children under 15 enter free).

Church of Our Lady of Monte

This is where, since the beginnings of Madeira’s colonization, the faithful gathered in prayer. The Church of Monte – Igreja Nossa Senhora do Monte, dedicated to Our Lady, the patroness of Madeira. The temple was built in the mid-15th century, demolished in 1741 to build a larger structure, but unfortunately, it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1748. The temple was rebuilt at the beginning of the 19th century in the baroque style and remains unchanged to this day. A point worth visiting, located near the Tropical Garden of Monte Palace.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM, Sunday to Monday from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM

Tickets: free entry.

Sledge ride from Monte ***

As I mentioned earlier, you can take the cable car down from Monte to Funchal, but there is a much more interesting way. Carros de cesto are nothing more than wicker sleds attached to wooden runners. So, what does that mean? We hop into the sleds, guided by two “carrieros” (men dressed in white with straw hats), and slide down the asphalt!

This 19th-century invention came about due to the need of wealthy residents who wanted to get from the hill to the city and port as quickly as possible. The wicker sleds can carry a maximum of three people. The carrieros speed it up, then jump onto the runners and use special shoes to steer, maneuver, and brake the sled. They can reach speeds of up to 50 km/h, so controlling them is not the easiest task. An additional thrill of the sledge ride is that it takes place on a regular asphalt road with traffic.

The route is about 1500 meters long and takes around 10 minutes. From the end point of the ride, you still need to walk about 2 kilometers to the city center, or you can take a taxi.

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM

Tickets: 1 person – €25, 2 people – €30, 3 people – €45 (children under 5 free).

Summary

Funchal is a great starting point, a picturesque, vibrant place full of various attractions. The capital of Madeira delights during the day with its colorful streets and beautiful gardens, and in the evening with atmospheric restaurants and Portuguese music. Even in bad weather, you won’t be bored here!

Map

On the map, I have marked (with a black star) places that I didn’t manage to visit due to opening hours, holidays, and renovations, but they are worth noting.

• Frederico Freitas Museum House – residence of the Counts of Calcada
• St. Clare Monastery – one of the oldest churches
• Quinta das Cruzes – one of the largest Quintas (estates surrounded by vast gardens)
• Old Blandy’s Wine Lodge – “the world of liquid Madeira” – I truly regret missing this one
• St. Lawrence Palace-Fortress
• Cristiano Ronaldo Museum – something for football fans
• Sacred Art Museum – a collection from across the island – cathedrals, treasuries, churches, and monasteries
• Madeira Story Centre – an interactive museum dedicated to Madeira
• Cable car to the Botanical Garden
• Monte Botanical Garden – I recommend choosing one of the two as I did 🙂
• Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro – the largest gardens in Madeira

If my article helped you plan your route and gather the necessary information, I would be grateful for your support in making my dreams come true by buying me a coffee!