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Following the Trail of Wrocław’s Dwarfs – Part I

Following the Trail of Wrocław’s Dwarfs – Part I


Have you planned a route from museum to museum, passing through churches, basilicas, and crowded streets? Looking to make your trip more exciting for yourself and your kids? It’s easy! During your visit to Wrocław, take a break between attractions and hunt for the hundreds of hidden dwarfs scattered throughout the city streets!

I’ve been to Wrocław hundreds of times, but always with a specific purpose. This time, I decided to take a closer look at the attractions I had only ever passed by—and, along the way, to hunt for the famous Wrocław dwarfs. So, let’s get started!

Papa Krasnal – pierwszy i największy wrocławski krasnal. Pojawił się w 2001 roku.

Below is the itinerary for the trip:

  1. Wrocław Główny Railway Station
  2. Dominikański Square and St. Adalbert’s Church
  3. St. Mary Magdalene Church
  4. Market Square
  5. Town Hall
  6. Salt Square
  7. St. Elizabeth’s Basilica
  8. Old Butcher’s Stalls
  9. University of Wrocław
  10. Ossolineum
  11. Market Hall
  12. Piaskowy Bridge and Tumski Bridge
  13. Monument of the Anonymous Pedestrian

Wrocław Główny Railway Station

I arrived in Wrocław by train in the morning hours at the Wrocław Główny Railway Station, located at Piłsudskiego 105. It is close to the city center and is well connected by public transportation to all districts of Wrocław.

The station was built between 1855 and 1857 under the supervision of the royal architect of the Upper Silesian Railway, Wilhelm Grapow. The building was designed in the English Gothic Revival style, which greatly impressed travelers. As the railway industry rapidly developed, the station quickly became too small. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, it was expanded. The original platform hall was converted into a reception area, and the platforms were relocated to the south and raised. The entire building was covered by a 200-meter-long station hall, which can still be admired today. In the past, the Wrocław station was one of the largest in Europe.

Dominikański Square and St. Adalbert’s Church

In the area of the current Dominikański Square, two important trade routes once intersected. The first one ran from south to north, passing through this area due to the convenient crossing over the Oder River. This was the Amber Route. The second route ran from east to west, from Rus and the Black Sea coast to the countries of Western Europe, known as the High Road.

Near these famous trade routes, settlement began to emerge. At the beginning of the 12th century, the oldest church on the left bank of the Oder River was built here – St. Adalbert’s Church. The church’s present appearance dates back to the 14th century. A chapel dedicated to Blessed Czesław, a Dominican who arrived with a group of monks in 1225, was added to the southern part of the church. He showed extraordinary courage during the Mongol invasion in 1241 and, in later years, became a precursor for King John III Sobieski, as he saved Wrocław, just as Jan saved Vienna from the Turks.

The church can be visited between masses.

St. Mary Magdalene Church

The church was built in the 13th century, and its current form dates back to the 14th century.

View from the Penitent Women’s Bridge

The Legend of the Penitent Women’s Bridge

In Wrocław, high up in the clouds, at the top of the towers of St. Mary Magdalene’s Church, there is a narrow bridge. This is the Bridge of the Penitent Women. How did it come to be? Listen closely…

A long, long time ago, in Wrocław, there lived a beautiful but vain and lazy girl named Tekla. She was so lazy that she would never lift a finger to work. She only cared about dressing up, gazing at her reflection in the mirror, and turning the heads of young men, though she never thought about marriage.

“Why do I need a husband?” she would laugh. “So I can work? Don’t I have the right to have fun?”

“What’s going to become of her?” her father would sigh.

“Tekla, it’s time to get married,” her mother would despair. But Tekla always dismissed it with a laugh.

Years passed, and Tekla remained unchanged—only thinking about parties, fine clothes, and dancing. Though she was no longer the youngest, she still refused to marry. There was no use for her in the house, and when her mother asked for help, Tekla never listened, and when her father pleaded, she ignored him, rushing off to another party or to try on a new dress.

One day, her angry father cursed Tekla for her carelessness, vanity, and laziness.

That very night, Tekla was kidnapped and placed on a bridge between the towers high above—punished for her vanity, she was destined to sweep it every day until the end of time.

Tekla’s tears, pleas, and cries were useless—high up in the clouds, no one could hear her.

Years passed. Tekla grew old, became unattractive, and her soiled face no longer showed the beauty she once had.

When she could no longer sweep the bridge, she was given help by a young witch named Martynka. Martynka, though a witch, had a kind heart and wanted to help Tekla. She had to ask for a long time to understand why Tekla was condemned to such a fate. The story of Tekla’s misfortune deeply moved Martynka.

One night, Martynka quietly took Tekla’s broom and flew to the Wrocław Market Square to seek help. She flew and flew, until she saw a mysterious man crawling across the square. She lowered her flight and landed in the square, curious to see him.

“Could you help, instead of just staring?” the stranger grumbled.

“I’d be happy to help, but what are you looking for?” Martynka asked politely.

It turned out that the man was the wizard Michał—he had lost his glasses and dropped his wand, and without it, he had no power. He was angry and helpless.

Martynka jumped on her broom and quickly spotted the wand. She handed it to Michał. In gratitude, the wizard promised to grant her one wish. Martynka asked for Tekla to be freed. Grateful, Michał granted the wish of the kind witch.

By the time Martynka returned to the bridge, Tekla was no longer there. Martynka returned to the witch school. The bridge remained as a warning for lazy young women. If you visit Wrocław, you can see it for yourself.

The legend written on the wall notice in St. Mary Magdalene Church.

On the Penitent Women’s Bridge landed the Gnome-Witches.

Market Square

The Market Square in Wrocław is the second largest in Poland. It is rectangular in shape, with streets crossing at the corners. Its boundaries were set in the 13th century. For a long time, it was the most important market square in the city. Each side of the square has its own name, and even in the 1970s, trams ran through it.

And on Wrocław’s Market Square, we can find the most gnomes!!

Every year, the Market Square hosts a beautiful Christmas market. The square sparkles with thousands of lights, festive music plays in the background, the air is filled with the scent of mulled wine and cinnamon, and hundreds of stalls with holiday treats are set up all around. This is something you can’t miss!

Town Hall

The construction of the Town Hall in Wrocław’s Market Square took as long as 250 years. Its construction began in the 13th century and was completed in the mid-16th century. Initially, the town hall was a single-story building and served only a commercial function. Over time, several rooms were added, as well as an additional floor.

It took on its late Gothic character at the end of the 15th century. The Town Hall is decorated with a finial and flower ornaments. In 1580, an astronomical clock was installed. Before the construction of the Wójt’s Hall, trials were held here under the open sky. The wójt (alderman) served as the representative of the burghers before the duke, collected taxes, and oversaw settlement matters. In addition, he presided over the court and issued judgments. Therefore, to this day, a reconstruction of the pillory stands in the market square (the original was destroyed during World War II).

Undoubtedly, it is a gem of Gothic-Renaissance architecture!

Museum of Bourgeois Art, Old Town Hall

Open from Tuesday to Saturday, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM.

On Sunday, from 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM.

  • Regular ticket: 15 PLN
  • Discounted ticket: 10 PLN
  • Group ticket (over 20 people): 10 PLN

Salt Market Square

The Salt Market Square adjoins the southwest corner of the Market Square. In the 13th century, salt was traded here. In the Middle Ages, it was often referred to as the Polish Square because the sale of salt from Wieliczka was mainly carried out by the Polish people. In addition to salt, fish, furs, honey, and wax were also sold here.

In the center of the square stands a large obelisk, which symbolically refers to events from the 15th century, when the famous inquisitor Jan Kapistran arrived in Wrocław. His fiery sermons (also held at the Salt Market Square) encouraged the locals to bring their precious furniture out and burn it in the square. Kapistran’s sermons contributed to the harassment of the Jewish population living in the city. The obelisk, shaped like a flame, symbolically refers to these events. It was designed by Adam Wyspiański in 1996.

Currently, flowers are sold at the Salt Market Square, available for purchase at any time of day or night.

St. Elizabeth’s Basilica

A Gothic church with a distinctive tower topped with a spire, from which you can also admire the panoramic view of the city. The tower is about 90 meters tall, and it takes 302 steps to reach the top. The tower once measured nearly 130 meters, but it was damaged in a hurricane in 1529. During this event, no one died, and a legend arose that angels held the tower up.

St. Elizabeth’s Basilica, as one of the few, survived World War II almost unharmed, though it caught fire several times after the war. It is definitely worth visiting to see the largest and most beautiful Baroque organs in Silesia, a masterpiece by Michael Engler.

Old Butcher’s Stalls

The Old Butcher’s Stalls – a place where meat was once traded. In the Middle Ages, meat was one of the main components of the townspeople’s diet. Initially, there were 42 stalls here. Over time, the Old Butcher’s Stalls gained popularity and brought in increasing profits, and every butcher in Wrocław wanted to trade here. Meat trade continued here until the 19th century, when butchers lost their monopoly, and merchants with a variety of goods began to appear at the Old Butcher’s Stalls.

The Old Butcher’s Stalls were destroyed during World War II. Architects managed to rebuild the unique complex of buildings, but it has little in common with the medieval stalls. Today, the Old Butcher’s Stalls host several galleries where you can buy unique souvenirs.

Walking from the Old Butcher’s Stalls towards the University of Wrocław, you pass through Więzienna Street, where the former medieval prison building stands. The northern wing was built in the 14th century, and around 1500, three more wings were added, creating a closed courtyard. Around 1683, the prison was rebuilt and took on its current appearance. It operated from the 14th to the 19th century, and today, there is a restaurant inside.

University of Wrocław

The University of Wrocław building was constructed in the second half of the 13th century. Initially, it served as a medieval castle and was the residence of the Duke. In the 17th century, the castle began to fall into ruin and was donated to the Jesuits by Leopold I. Thanks to this gift, the university was established. Today, it is the flagship building of the university, also open to visitors.

Open daily (except Wednesdays!!!)

Opening hours: 10:00 AM – 3:30 PM

Guess which day I happened to be in Wrocław? 🙂

Ossolineum

Ossolineum, also known as the National Ossoliński Institute, is one of the most important and oldest centers of Polish culture. Inside, we can admire a rich collection of library holdings and manuscripts of Polish creators, such as:

  • The Deluge – Henryk Sienkiewicz,
  • Pan Tadeusz – Adam Mickiewicz,
  • The Peasants – Władysław Reymont,

and many other creators. It also houses works and first editions, such as On the Revolutions of the Celestial Spheres by Nicolaus Copernicus.

Market Hall

Of course, the famous Market Hall, built in 1908, had to be included in the itinerary. It was designed by Richard Pluddemann and Heinrich Kuster. The building was ahead of its time and surprised with its modern interior. To this day, it has retained its market atmosphere.

Piaskowy Bridge and Tumski Bridge

Piaskowy Bridge is the oldest iron bridge of this type in Wrocław. It was built in 1861. It was one of the first bridges leading from the city center to the north and the shortest route to Ostrów Tumski.

Piaskowy Bridge

The Tumski Bridge, built in 1889, was initially named the Cathedral Bridge. It is now known as the Lovers’ Bridge or the Bridge of Love. It connects the Piasek Island and Ostrów Tumski.

Tumski Bridge
The dwarf on the Tumski Bridge. Don’t miss it!

Monument to the Anonymous Pedestrian

The monument consists of 14 human figures cast in bronze, life-sized, standing along both sides of Świdnicka Street, where it intersects with Piłsudski Street. It depicts men and women of different ages, and the figures gradually fade as they move closer to the street, seemingly entering an invisible passage, only to slowly emerge from it on the other side.

The monument was unveiled on the night of December 12–13, 2005, on the 24th anniversary of the introduction of martial law. Therefore, one interpretation of the monument refers to the changes that occurred in Poland up until the introduction of martial law. Another interpretation commemorates the difficult times and the anonymous individuals who, in their fight against communism, had to go underground.

The Anonymous Pedestrian Monument in Wrocław was inspired by the installation “Przejście” (Passage) created by Jerzy Kalina in 1977, which was set up in Warsaw for the “Vox Populi” television program, later dismantled, and placed in the Wrocław National Museum.

Newsweek Polska ranked it among the 15 most beautiful places in Poland, American Budget Travel recognized it as one of the most extraordinary places in Poland, and Arch20 included it in the list of the 25 most creative monuments in the world!

Summary

The trip took me about 6 hours, and I walked around 7.5 kilometers, with a break for coffee and lunch. During the walk, I managed to spot exactly 50 gnomes. I planned the route on the go, based on the “Guide to Wrocław” by Małgorzata Urlich-Kornacka. It provides short, concise information and a map with marked points. I highly recommend it.

As a conclusion to the day, I went for a Boeing 737 flight simulation, and I’m already planning my next trip to Wrocław, this time to the Centennial Hall area, Japanese Garden, and the zoo.

If my article helped you plan your route and gather the necessary information, I would be grateful for your support in making my dreams come true by buying me a coffee!

Postaw mi kawę na buycoffee.to

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