Wunsdorf – City of Books and Bunkers

Wunsdorf is located south of Berlin, bordering the slightly smaller town of Zossen. Bücher- und Bunkerstadt, or the City of Books and Bunkers.

Table of Contents:

1. Wunsdorf – City of Books and Bunkers
2. Military History Museum
3. Indian Cemetery Zehrensdorf

Wunsdorf – City of Books and Bunkers

Wunsdorf has a rather interesting history. In 1877, an artillery range was established in the nearby forests. Then, in 1910, the German Empire’s army set up a garrison here. During World War I, it was the main headquarters of the German army. After Adolf Hitler came to power in the 1930s, and after significant military expansion, anti-aircraft shelters with a characteristic pointed design, topped with spires, were built. Several bunkers were created, each capable of housing up to 300 people. They were meant to protect the residents and local workers. Today, only a few of them remain in very good condition, while the rest are ruins.

In the nearby area, there is also a bunker complex named Zeppelin and Maybach. Unfortunately, on the day of my visit, these complexes were closed.

In March 1945, the bunkers were bombed by American and British forces. Officially, about 580 bombers were used for the attack, but there are rumors that the actual number was much lower. The bombing was unsuccessful. The Red Army was approaching Wunsdorf, and General Krebs requested permission from Hitler to evacuate and demolish the entire complex. Unfortunately, they didn’t manage to destroy them in time, and on April 20, 1945, the Red Army fully took over the telecommunication complex. In 1946, the Red Army demolished the Maybach I and II complexes, leaving Zeppelin intact. During the Cold War, Wunsdorf was the main headquarters of the Western Group of Forces of the Soviet Army. It wasn’t until the 1990s, specifically in 1994, that the bunkers were demilitarized, and Soviet soldiers left the area.

In present times, the remnants of the bunkers are located between residential buildings. All of them can be approached, viewed, and photographed. The best time to visit is from October to March, before the surrounding vegetation completely obscures them.

In the vicinity of the bunkers, there are also former stables that have been converted into museums. One of them is dedicated to the German army from the period of World War I, while the other focuses on the Red Army, which had its headquarters in the area for about 50 years. Inside, well-preserved relics, memorabilia, badges, uniforms, newspapers, and magazines can be found. Fascinating yet terrifying mementos, hiding memories from the times of war.

Military History Museum

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday (including holidays) from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM

Price:

• Museum – 7 euros
• Spiked bunker – 1.5 eurosBilety można kupić na wejściu do muzeum.

Indian Cemetery in Zehrensdorf

Initially, this cemetery served a small community residing in the Zehrensdorf district. However, with the construction of the military complex in 1909, known as Truppenübungsplatz Wünsdorf (-Zossen), the civilian population was relocated, and the cemetery was repurposed for military purposes.

During World War I, two large prisoner-of-war camps were maintained in the area – Halbmondlager and Weinberglager – where about 150,000 prisoners were held. These camps mainly housed prisoners of French, British, Russian, Tatar, Bashkir, and Indian nationalities, who had been captured on the front. After their deaths, several monuments were erected at the Zehrensdorf cemetery in their memory.

During World War II, the cemetery was used for burying local German soldiers and civilians. After the war, the cemetery was abandoned and began to fall into disrepair. When the Soviet forces took over the Wunsdorf complex, the cemetery was absorbed into the military training area and was strictly inaccessible. It was used for exercises and maneuvers, leading to its complete devastation. In 1994, when the Russian forces withdrew from the area, the cemetery slowly turned into a forgotten forest, with most of the monuments in ruins.

It wasn’t until 2002 that the town of Zossen and the Commonwealth War Graves Commission began restoring the cemetery to its original condition. Currently, besides civilian graves, there are 988 war graves:

• 409 Russian, Tatar, Georgian, and Armenian members of the Russian army,
• 98 Germans who died and victims of bombings (air raid on Zossen on April 15, 1945),
• 227 members of the Indian 4th Lahore and 7th Meerut Armies,
• 263 inhabitants of North and West Africa from French colonies as members of the French army,
• Two fallen Belgians.

Winter opening hours: from November to April, Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Summer opening hours: from May to October, Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM

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